Monday, June 25, 2007

Beijing: Ming, Mao or Mickey?







For me, Beijing was a study in paradox. A vast sprawling urban city; but filled with a good deal of open space, green belts and gardens. Think Washington DC - on steroids.

The ancient is omnipresent in Beijing. At every turn there is a gate, palace, statue, or tomb, reminding you China measures time in hundreds of years and a thousand of those were before the birth of Christ. On Sunday, we had an amazing rickshaw tour through a central neighborhood near Tian’anmen Square and a local family served us lunch in their dining room. (more on that adventure later) and our guide told us that most of these houses were built 400 years ago. In many cases the same family has owned that same house for that entire 400 years! Beijingers show rightful pride in their ancient culture.

At the same time, our guide Thomas, even after 500 years expresses proper angst with the hubris and excesses of the emperors. Upon viewing an enormous stone statue carved in the shape of a boat jutting out into the lake at the Summer Palace, he tells us of the proverb “While the water floats the boat, it can also capsize the boat.” The water representing the people and the boat the emperor class’ belief they were so strong and stable that they did not answer to the people and could not be capsized. While it took them quite a while the people did finally have the last word in the form of Chairman Mao. While the stone boat still stands, Chairman Mao’s portrait now hangs above the Emperor’s Gate. The new world American in me can certainly understand the need for a bit of revolution in the face of that much wage gap and oppression which 3000 years of tradition can bring.

Lastly, Beijing is as modern a city as any in the world. I was very surprised at depth and breadth of prosperity that is highly evident in Beijing. It strikes me as a place where a rising tide has lifted all boats. Lots and lots and lots of brand new cars, streets, busses and restaurants filled with very well dressed, smiling people- all talking on cell phones.
Everyone who wears a uniform in Beijing seems to wear it with great pride. Stewards, Immigration, Bus drivers, Cabbies, Bellman, Front Desk, Waitstaff, Pool Boy are all pressed, immaculate and ready for inspection. And while the language gap makes it hard they are energetic and seem to be very happy with what they do. However our guide Thomas made it clear early on that he was not pleased that his country was adopting American ways. He highly disapproved of Mickey Mouse, McDonalds and was afraid that his country has fallen in love with the automobile. But during the three days we spent with him I think he spent 4 hours on his cell phone and when we asked what he did when not giving tours, he quickly replied “I play computer games.”

JAT

1 comment:

tawn & paul said...

What a dichotomy...interesting thoughts. Thanks Jack Daddy!